BimmaBlog

See this link for progress so far:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic8786.html

In the old days, you just untightened and removed the two terminals from the battery, and that was that, but now its got over-complicated! I hadn’t used the Rangie for a week or so, and got a flat battery, couldn’t jump it from the little Mazda Eunos, so needed to try a charge up before it was off to Halfords for a new battery. Read through the Rave CD which required reading of four different sections, just to disconnect the battery, so here it is in all its glory:

DISCONNECTION:

1. Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
2. Ensure the alarm is disabled.
3. Wait at least 2 minutes ( I gave it 5) for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Guage
4. Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
5. Now wait 10 minutes ( I gave it 20) for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
6. You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
7. Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
8. Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
9. Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
10. OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
11. Battery disconnected!

RECONNECTION:

1. Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
2. Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
3. Reconnect the “jump lead” cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
4. Reconnect the multiplug.
5. Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
6. Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
7. Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
8. Hopefully, everything back to normal.

NB: I left the battery in-situ to charge it, even though handbook and workshop manual recommend removal (Removal is for another blog post, which might mean gaining greater access under the bonnet, and pulley and levers to lift the flaming thing out!)

Much written and said about this, but could I find any photo tutorials? No. Also, much of the information is incomplete, leading to confusion on my part when the time came to do it. So here we go.

Haven’t really got hands on with the new Range Rover, was quite happy dismantling stuff on the P38 so was time to get stuck in on the L322 at last and start saving a few pennies at the stealer.

One day, the fans stopped working on Big Bob. All the lights were working, and there was some heat, but nothing blowing. So a quick search on the internet revealed that the final stage resistor (FSR) or fan motor resistor unit was to blame, or at least this was the first best thing to try before it became a case of having the whole inside of the car removed to sort the problem. There were several write ups on the net about how to do it so a trip to eBay found me the required part, and I set to one Friday evening.

You can experience a wide range of symptoms from the FSR going belly up: no fans, fans all the time, battery drain, but the most likely cause of all of these is a dodgy FSR.

This howto is for a UK spec Right Hand Drive car. (more…)